What flies do I actually need to start fly fishing?
Short answer
About a dozen patterns in three or four sizes each will cover a first season: two searching dry flies, two attractor nymphs, a midge, a terrestrial and a streamer. Carry each in sizes 14 through 18. Size and depth matter far more than pattern — buy fewer patterns and more sizes.
How many flies does a beginner actually need?
Roughly a dozen patterns, three or four sizes of each, three of each size. That is 40 to 50 flies in a single box, and it will cover a full season on most North American trout water.
The instinct is the opposite: buy one of everything that looks good, end up with 200 flies in one size each, and never build any confidence in any of them. A small box fished hard teaches you more than a large box browsed. And a fly you have only one of is a fly you will not cast near the log jam, which is where the fish is.
What should be in a first fly box?
Think in jobs, not names. Each of these categories does something the others cannot, and the specific patterns listed are proven representatives — follow the links for what each one imitates, when to fish it, and in what sizes.
| Job in the box | Carry | Sizes | Why it is in there |
|---|---|---|---|
| Searching dry fly | Parachute Adams | #14, #16, #18 | Fish it when you see rises you cannot identify |
| Caddis dry | Elk Hair Caddis | #14, #16 | Rides broken water well and is easy to see |
| Slim nymph | Pheasant Tail Nymph | #14, #16, #18 | The default subsurface fly on most rivers |
| Buggy nymph | Hare's Ear Nymph | #12, #14, #16 | A different silhouette when the slim one is refused |
| Weighted anchor nymph | Copper John | #14, #16 | Gets a rig down fast in heavy water |
| Midge | Zebra Midge | #18, #20 | Winter, tailwaters, and any time nothing else works |
| Terrestrial | Beetle | #12, #14 | Summer, wind, and grassy banks |
| Big buoyant dry | Chubby Chernobyl | #8, #10 | Doubles as the indicator on a dry-dropper rig |
| Streamer | Woolly Bugger | #8, #10 | Covers water fast; works when the surface tells you nothing |
| Wildcard | San Juan Worm | #12 | High, colored water, when nothing subtle is being seen |
That is ten patterns. Add two more that are specific to your home water — ask at the local shop, which is the single most useful thirty seconds of research available — and the box is finished.
Why does size matter more than pattern?
A trout holding in moving current has a fraction of a second to accept or reject something drifting past. In that window it is reading, roughly in order: size, then silhouette, then behavior (is it drifting naturally?), then color. Pattern name comes nowhere.
This is why the same dressing in three sizes is more useful than three different dressings in one size. A #14 and a #18 of the same fly are, to a fish, two different insects. A #14 of two different patterns are frequently the same insect.
How do I choose a fly on the water?
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Look before you open the box
Are fish rising? Is anything in the air, on the water, or crawling on the rocks in the shallows? Two minutes of observation narrows a hundred choices to about three.
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Pick the category first
Rises and insects on the surface mean a dry fly. Nothing showing means a nymph. High, colored or very low light means a streamer. The category decision matters far more than the pattern decision.
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Match the size you can see
If you can catch an insect, hold it against a hook in your box. If you cannot, start at #16 — it is the middle of the range for most rivers most of the year.
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Fish it properly for ten drifts
A good fly drifted badly outfishes nothing. Give any choice ten honest presentations through good water before you judge it.
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Change one variable at a time
If it fails, change depth first, then size, then pattern. Changing all three at once means you learn nothing from the change that finally works.
What about the water I actually fish?
The generic box above is deliberately generic. Local conditions shift the emphasis, sometimes a lot.
| Water type | Weight the box toward | Because |
|---|---|---|
| Freestone river | Buggy, impressionistic patterns; larger sizes | Broken water, opportunistic fish, short inspection time |
| Tailwater below a dam | Small midges and slim nymphs, #18–#22 | Stable flows, dense midge populations, selective fish |
| Spring creek | Precise silhouettes, small sizes, fine tippet | Flat, clear, slow water gives fish time to inspect |
| Stillwater | Leeches, chironomid patterns, damsel nymphs | No current means no drift — you are imitating swimming, not drifting |
| Small brushy creek | Buoyant attractors, #12–#16 | Fish are opportunistic and rarely selective; visibility matters |
None of this requires a second box. It means buying four of the pattern your river demands and one of the pattern it does not.
How should I organize and look after them?
One box, sorted by category rather than by pattern — dries in one row, nymphs in another, streamers in a third. Sorting by category matches the way you actually decide on the water: you pick the job before you pick the fly.
- Dry your flies before they go back in. A wet fly in a closed foam box rusts, and it rusts the hooks next to it. Park used flies on your patch or the outside of the box until they dry.
- Check the hook points. Drag the point across a thumbnail — if it slides instead of catching, sharpen it or bin the fly. Blunt hooks cost more fish than fly choice ever will.
- Retire crushed hackle. A dry fly that has been chewed and no longer floats is a wet fly you did not intend to fish.
What is the fastest way to learn which fly to use?
Reduce the number of variables you are guessing at. Anglers who struggle with fly selection are usually not being beaten by fly selection — they are being beaten by depth and drag, and then blaming the fly. Get the drift right first, and fly choice becomes a much smaller problem than it looks from the shop counter.
After that, it is pattern recognition, and it is learnable. Knowing at a glance that a slim olive nymph, a fat brown nymph and a tiny black midge do different jobs is most of what experienced anglers are doing when they seem to pick a fly out of thin air. The Fly-brary lays out all 54 patterns that way: what each one imitates, the sizes to carry, and when it earns its place.
Then go and fish the same six flies for a season. Confidence in a fly is not superstition — it makes you fish that fly more carefully, for longer, in better water, which is exactly why it catches more.
Frequently asked questions
How many flies should a beginner buy?
Around 40 to 50 individual flies, made up of roughly a dozen patterns in three or four sizes each. You will lose flies to trees and rocks, so carry three of anything you actually intend to fish, not one.
Does the exact pattern matter?
Less than size, depth and drift. A trout in moving water judges silhouette and size before color, and a fly at the wrong depth is not judged at all. Get those three right with an ordinary pattern before you go looking for a better fly.
What size flies should I start with?
Sizes 14 to 18 cover the great majority of trout fishing in North America. Beginners consistently fish too large. If fish are refusing, drop two sizes before you change patterns.
Should I buy flies or tie my own?
Buy, for the first season. Tying is a genuinely rewarding second hobby and a poor way to solve an empty fly box in week one. Learn what you actually fish, then tie those.
Sources
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The answers above, in your vest pocket.
54 hand-drawn flies on Genuine Bicycle Rider Back stock with the patented Air-Cushion finish, with a contribution to Trout Unlimited from every deck.